About 遊方記抄

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Records of Pilgrimage Travels is a Tang Dynasty compilation of Buddhist travel accounts, primarily containing the Record of Travels to the Five Indian Regions by the Silla monk Hyecho, along with writings by Tang monks such as Yuanzhao. Compiled in the 8th century, the work documents Hyecho's journey by sea to India in search of the Dharma and his return overland, detailing the geography, customs, and state of Buddhism in various Central and South Asian regions. As Hyecho's original work is largely lost, the surviving portions within this compilation have become extremely precious historical materials for studying the history of the Silk Road, the spread of Buddhism, and cultural exchanges between China and foreign lands during that period. This text holds irreplaceable value for understanding the Dharma-seeking activities of Buddhist monks and East-West communications during the High Tang era.

此寺中有一金銅像。五百□□□。是摩揭陀國舊有一王名尸羅栗底。造此像也。兼造一金銅□□輻團圓正寸三十餘步此城俯臨恒河北岸置也。即此鹿野苑。拘尸那。舍城。摩訶菩提等四大靈塔。在摩揭陀國王界。此國大小乘俱行。□□得達摩訶菩提寺。稱其本願。非常歡喜。略題述其愚志。五言不慮菩提遠。焉將鹿苑遙。只愁懸路險。非意業風飄。八塔難誠見。參著經劫燒。何其人願滿。目覩在今朝又即從此彼羅痆斯國。□□月至中天竺國王住城。名葛那。及自此中天王境界極寬。百姓繁閑。王有九百頭象餘大首領各有三二百頭。其王每自領兵馬鬪戰。常與餘□天戰也。天中王常勝。彼國法。自知象少兵少。即請和。每年輸稅。不交陣相殺也。衣著言音。人風法用。五天相似。唯南天村草百姓。語□差別。仕□之類。中天不殊。

In this temple there is a gilded bronze statue. Five hundred [...] It was made by a king of Magadha long ago named Śīlāditya. He also commissioned a gilded bronze [...] with a full, round wheel, over thirty paces in circumference. This city sits on the northern bank of the Ganges River. That is, the four great sacred stupas—Deer Park, Kuśinagara, Rājagṛha, and Mahābodhi—all lie within the territory of the king of Magadha. In this country both the Mahāyāna and Hīnayāna are practiced. [...] I finally reached the Mahābodhi Temple, fulfilling my original vow. I was overjoyed. I briefly record here my humble aspirations.

Five-character verse: I never worried that Enlightenment was far, How could Deer Park seem distant? My only fear was the perilous road ahead, And that the wind of Karma might blow me off course. The eight stupas are hard to truly behold, Their ruins consumed by kalpa-fires. How could my vow be so fully fulfilled— To see them with my own eyes today?

Then from Vārāṇasī I traveled [...] month to the capital city of the king of Central India, named Kanauj. The domain of this king of Central India is extremely vast, and the people are many. The king has nine hundred elephants, and the other great chiefs each have two or three hundred. The king himself often leads his troops into battle, constantly warring against other [...] kings. The king of Central India usually wins. By the law of that country, if one knows one has fewer elephants and soldiers, one sues for peace. Each year they pay tribute, and do not meet in battle to kill one another. Clothing, language, customs, and ways of life in the five regions of India are similar. Only among the common villagers of South India is the language somewhat different. For officials and the like, Central India is no different.

此中天大小乘俱行。即此中天界內有四大塔。恒河在北岸有三大塔。一舍衛國給孤薗中。見有寺有僧。二。毘耶離城菴羅薗中。有塔見在。其寺荒廢無僧。三。迦毘耶羅國。即佛本生城。無憂樹見在。彼城已廢。有塔無僧。亦無百姓。此城最居比。林木荒多。道路足賊。往彼禮拜者。甚難方迷。四。三道寶階塔。在中天王住城西七日程。在兩恒河間。佛當從刀利天變成三道寶階。下閻浮提地處。左金右銀。中吠瑠璃佛於中道梵王左路。帝釋右階侍佛下來。即於此處置塔。見有寺僧有。即從中天國南行三箇餘月。至南天竺國王所住。王有八百頭象。境土極寬。南至南海。東至東海。西至西海。北至中天。西天東天等國接界。衣著飲食人風。與中天相似。唯言音稍別。土地熱於中天。土地所出。㲲布象水牛黃牛。亦少有羊。無駝騾驢等。有稻田。無黍粟等。至於綿絹之屬。五天總無。王及領首百姓等。極敬三寶足寺足僧。大小乘俱行。於彼山中。有一大寺。是龍樹菩薩便夜叉神造。非人所作。竝鑿山為柱。三重作樓。四面方圓三百餘步。龍樹在日。寺有三千僧。獨供養以十五石米。每日供三千僧。其米不竭。取却還生。元不減少。然今此寺廢。無僧也。龍樹壽年七百。方始亡也。于時在南天路。為言曰。五言月夜□□路。浮雲颯颯歸。減書參去便。風急不聽迴。我國天岸北。他邦地角西。日南無有雁。誰為向林飛。

Here, both the Mahayana and Hinayana traditions are practiced in Central India. Within Central India there are four great stupas. On the northern bank of the Ganges there are three great stupas. First, in the Jetavana Grove of Shravasti: there is a monastery with monks to be seen. Second, in the Amra Grove of Vaishali: a stupa still stands. Its monastery lies in ruins with no monks. Third, in the kingdom of Kapilavastu, the Buddha's birthplace: the Ashoka tree still stands. That city is now abandoned. There is a stupa but no monks, and no common people either. This city is the farthest away. The forests are dense and wild, and the roads are full of bandits. For those who go there to pay homage, it is extremely difficult and they easily lose their way. Fourth, the stupa of the Three Precious stairways. It is seven days' journey west of the city where the Central Indian king resides, between the two Ganges rivers. This is the place where the Buddha, descending from the Trayastrimsha Heaven, manifesting three precious stairways of gold, silver, and lapis lazuli, came down to the land of Jambudvipa—gold on the left, silver on the right, and lapis lazuli in the middle. The Buddha took the central path; Brahma followed on the left stairway, and Indra on the right, attending the Buddha as he descended. A stupa was established at this place. There is a monastery and monks to be seen there.

Going south from Central India for more than three months, one arrives at the capital of the king of South India. The king has eight hundred elephants. His territory is extremely vast: to the south it reaches the Southern Sea, to the east the Eastern Sea, to the west the Western Sea, and to the north it borders Central India. The kingdoms of the Western and Eastern Heavens share its borders. In clothing, food, and customs, the people are similar to those of Central India, though their speech differs slightly. The land is hotter than Central India. What the land produces includes coarse cotton cloth, elephants, water buffalo, and oxen. There are also a few sheep. There are no camels, mules, or donkeys. There are rice paddies, but no millet or other such grains. As for silk and woven fabrics, none are found anywhere in the five regions of India. The king, along with the leading officials and common people, deeply reveres the Three Jewels, and there is an abundance of monasteries and monks. Both the Mahayana and Hinayana traditions are practiced.

In the mountains there, there is a great monastery. It was built by the Bodhisattva Nagarjuna with the help of yaksha spirits—not by human hands. The mountain was carved out to form pillars, and it was built as a three-storied pavilion, measuring over three hundred paces in circumference on all four sides. In Nagarjuna's time, the monastery housed three thousand monks. Fifteen piculs of rice were offered for their support. Every day, rice was provided for three thousand monks, yet the rice never ran out. What was taken out was replenished, and it never decreased. But now this monastery lies abandoned, with no monks. Nagarjuna lived to be seven hundred years old before he passed away.

At that time, on the road in South India, he spoke these words:

Moonlit night, the road ahead— Drifting clouds, rustling, return. Few letters sent, and then departure— The wind blows fierce, no turning back. My homeland lies at the northern bank of the sky; The land of others at the western corner of the earth. In the southern reaches there are no geese— For whom would they fly toward the forest?

又從西天北行三箇餘月。至北天國也。名闍蘭達羅國。王有三百頭象。依山作城而住。從茲已北。漸漸有山。為國狹小兵馬不多。常被中天及迦葉彌羅國屢屢所吞。所以依山而住。人風衣著言音。與中天不殊。土地稍冷於中天等也。亦無霜雪。但有風冷。土地所有出象㲲布稻麥驢騾少有。其王有馬百匹。首領三五匹。百姓並無。西是平川。東近雪山。國內足寺足僧。大小乘俱行。又一月程過雪山。東有一小國。名蘇跋那具怛羅。屬土蕃國所管。衣著與北天相似。言音即別。土地極寒也。又從此闍蘭達羅國西行。經一月。至一社吒國。言音稍別。大分相似。衣著人風。土地所出。節氣寒暖。與北天相似。亦足寺足僧。大小乘俱行。王及首領百姓等。大敬信三寶又從此吒國西行一月。至新頭故羅國。衣著風俗。節氣寒暖。與北天相似。言音稍別。此國極足駱駝。國人取乳酪喫也。王及百姓等。大敬三寶足寺足僧。即造順正理論。眾賢論師。是此國人也。此國大小乘俱行。見今大𥦽侵半國損也。即從此國乃至五天。不多飲酒。遍歷五天。不見有醉人相打之者。縱有飲者。得色得力而已。不見有歌舞作劇飲宴之者。又從北天國有一寺。名多摩三磨娜。佛在之日。來此說法。廣度人天。此寺東澗裏。於泉水邊有一塔。而佛所剃頭及剪爪甲。在此塔中。此見有三百餘僧。寺有大辟支佛牙及骨舍利等。更有七八所寺。各五六百人。大好住持。王及百姓等。非常敬信。

Then traveling north from western India for more than three months, I arrived in the northern country, named Zalandala. Its king had three hundred elephants. The people built their city against the mountains and lived there. Going north from here, mountains gradually appear. The country is small and narrow, with no great number of troops. It is constantly swallowed up by Central India and the country of Kashmira again and again. That is why they dwell relying on the mountains. The people's customs, clothing, and speech are no different from those of Central India. The land is somewhat colder than Central India. There is also no frost or snow, only wind and cold. As for what the land produces, elephants, cotton cloth, rice, wheat, donkeys, and mules are few. The king had a hundred horses; leading officials had three or five each; the common people had none at all. To the west is level plain; to the east is near the Snow Mountains. In the country there are enough monasteries and enough monks; both the Great Vehicle and the Small Vehicle are practiced.

Then after a month's journey, crossing the Snow Mountains, to the east there is a small country named Subhavanagandhara. It is under the control of the country of Tubo. Their clothing is similar to that of northern India, but their speech is different. The land is extremely cold.

Again, traveling west from this country of Zalandala for one month, I arrived at a country called Jata. Their speech was slightly different, but for the most part similar. Their clothing, customs, what the land produces, and the cold and warmth of the seasons are similar to those of northern India. There are also enough monasteries and enough monks; both the Great Vehicle and the Small Vehicle are practiced. The king, leading officials, common people, and so on greatly revere and have faith in the Three Jewels.

Again, traveling west from this country of Jata for one month, I arrived at the country of Shintugula. Their clothing, customs, and the cold and warmth of the seasons are similar to those of northern India. Their speech is slightly different. This country has an abundance of camels. The people of the country take milk and curd and eat them. The king, common people, and so on greatly revere the Three Jewels. There are enough monasteries and enough monks. It was here that the Nyayanusara Shastra was composed. The teacher Samghabhadra was a man of this country. In this country both the Great Vehicle and the Small Vehicle are practiced. I have seen that the great Turks now invade and damage half the country.

From this country onward, throughout the five regions of India, people do not drink much alcohol. Having traveled throughout the five regions of India, I never saw a single drunken person striking another. Even if there are those who drink, they only gain complexion and strength, and that is all. I never saw anyone singing, dancing, putting on performances, or holding drinking feasts.

Again, in the northern country there is a monastery named Tamrasamgha? The Buddha, during his lifetime, came here to teach the Dharma and broadly save humans and gods. In the eastern ravine of this monastery, beside a spring, there is a stupa. The hair the Buddha shaved and the nails he cut are in this stupa. At present there are more than three hundred monks there. The monastery has a large pratyekabuddha tooth and bone relics, and so on. There are moreover seven or eight monasteries, each with five or six hundred people. They maintain it very well. The king, common people, and so on are exceedingly reverent and faithful.

又從此北行十五日。入山至迦羅國。此迦彌羅。亦是北天數。此國稍大。王有三百頭象。住在山中。道路險惡。不被外國所侵。人民極眾。貧多富少。王及首領諸富有者。衣著與中天不殊。自外百姓。悉枝毛毯。覆其形醜。土地出銅鐵㲲布毛毯牛羊。有象少馬粳米蒲桃之類。土地極寒。不同已前諸國。秋霜冬雪。夏足霜雨。百卉亘青葉彫。冬草悉枯川谷狹小。南北五日程。東西一日行。土地即盡。餘並蔭山。屋並板木覆上不用草瓦。王及首領百姓等。甚敬三寶。國內有一龍池。彼龍王每日供養不一羅漢僧。雖無人見彼聖僧食。亦過齋已。即見餅飯從水下紛紛亂上。以此得知。迄今供養不絕。王及大首領出外乘象。小官乘馬。百姓並皆途步。國內足寺足僧。大小乘俱行。五天國法。上至國王。至國王王妃王子。下至首領及妻隨其力能各自造寺也。還別作。不共修營。彼云。各自功德。何須共造。此既如然。餘王子等亦爾。

Then traveling north from there for fifteen days, entering the mountains, one reaches the country of Kasmira. This Kasmira is also counted among the northern regions. This country is somewhat large. Its king has three hundred elephants. He lives in the mountains. The roads are dangerous and treacherous, so it is not invaded by outside countries. The population is extremely large, but there are many poor and few rich. The clothing of the king, the chiefs, and the wealthy is no different from that of Central India. As for the common people outside of these, they all use woven wool blankets to cover their unsightly bodies. The land produces copper, iron, cotton cloth, wool blankets, cattle, and sheep. There are elephants but few horses, and rice and grapes and the like. The land is extremely cold, unlike the previously mentioned countries. There is autumn frost and winter snow. In summer there is abundant frost and rain. The hundred plants remain green while leaves wither. In winter all the grass dries up. The river valleys are narrow and small. It is a five-day journey from north to south and a one-day journey from east to west, and then the land ends. The rest is all shaded by mountains. Houses all have wooden planks laid on top; they do not use thatch or tiles. The king, the chiefs, and the common people all deeply revere the Three Jewels. Within the country there is a dragon pond. The dragon king there makes offerings every day to one arhat monk. Although no one sees that holy monk eat, after the meal is finished, cakes and rice are seen rising in confusion from beneath the water. From this it is known. To this day the offerings have not ceased. When the king and the great chiefs go out, they ride elephants. Lesser officials ride horses. The common people all travel on foot. Within the country there are enough monasteries and enough monks. Both the Mahayana and Hinayana are practiced. According to the law of the Five Indias, from the king at the top down to the king's consorts and princes, and further down to the chiefs and their wives, each builds monasteries according to their own ability. They still build separately; they do not construct and maintain them in common. They say, "Each has their own merit; why must we build together?" Since this is so, the other princes and the like are also the same.

凡造寺供養。即施村莊百姓。供養三寶。無有空造寺不施百姓者。為外國法。王及妃姤。各別村莊百姓。王子首領。各有百姓。布施自由不王也。造寺亦然。須造即造。亦不問王。王亦不敢遮。怕拈罪也。若富有百姓。雖無村莊布施。亦勵力造寺。以自經紀。得物供養三寶。為五天不賣人。無有奴婢。要須布施百姓村薗也。又迦葉彌羅國東北。隔山十五日程。即是大㔜律國。揚同國。娑播慈國。此三國並屬吐蕃所管。衣著言音人風並別。著皮裘㲲衫靴袴等也。地狹小。山川極險。亦有寺有僧。敬信三寶。若是已東吐蕃。總無寺舍。不識佛法。當土是胡。所以信也。

Whenever a temple was built, land and villages were immediately given to provide support, as an offering to the Three Jewels. There was no case of building a temple without providing villages for the people's support. This is the custom in foreign lands: the king and the queen each had their own villages and people, and the princes and chiefs each had their own people as well. They could give generosity freely, without the king's involvement. Building temples was the same—if one needed to build, one simply built, without asking the king. The king did not dare obstruct it either, for fear of incurring karmic guilt. If a wealthy commoner wished to build a temple, even without villages to give, they would strive diligently to build one and manage it themselves, obtaining resources to make offerings to the Three Jewels. In the Five Indias, people were not sold, and there were no slaves or servants; one simply had to give villages and land to support the people. Also, to the northeast of Kashmir, fifteen days' journey across the mountains, lies the country of Great Bolü, the country of Yangtong, and the country of Sapoci. These three countries were all under the rule of Tubo. Their clothing, speech, and customs are all different from one another. They wear leather robes, woolen garments, boots, and trousers. The land is narrow and small, and the mountains and rivers are extremely treacherous. There are also temples and monks there who revere and have faith in the Three Jewels. But east of there, in Tubo proper, there are no temples at all, and the people do not know the Dharma. The local people are Hu, and that is why they have faith.

已東吐蕃國。純住氷山雪山川谷之間。以氈帳而居。無有城郭屋舍。處所與突厥相似。隨逐水草。其王雖在一處。亦無城但依氈帳以為居業。土地出羊馬猫牛毯褐之類。衣著毛褐皮裘。女人亦爾。土地極寒。不同餘國。家常食麨。少有餅飯。國王百姓等。總不識佛法。無有寺舍。國人悉皆穿地作坑而臥。無有床席。人民極黑。白者全布。言音與諸國不同。多愛喫虱。為著毛褐。甚饒蟣虱。捉得便拋口裏。終不棄也又迦葉彌羅國西北。隔山七日程。至小㔜律國。此屬漢國所管。衣著人風。飲食言音。與大㔜律相似。著㲲衫及靴剪其鬚髮。頭上纏疊布一條。女人在髮。貧多富少。山川狹小。田種不多。其山憔杌。元無樹木及於諸草。其大㔜律。元是小㔜律王所住之處。為吐蕃來逼。走入小㔜律國坐。首領百姓。在彼大㔜律不來。

East of this lies the country of Tubo. The people live purely among the glaciers, snow mountains, rivers, and valleys. They dwell in felt tents, with no cities or houses. Their way of life is similar to that of the Turks. They follow water and grass. Although their king stays in one place, there is no city either; they rely on felt tents for their dwelling and livelihood. The land produces sheep, horses, cats, cattle, rugs, and coarse woolen cloth. They wear woolen garments and fur robes. Women are the same. The land is extremely cold, unlike other countries. In their homes they often eat tsampa, and rarely have flatbread or rice. The king and common people alike have no knowledge of the Dharma at all. There are no monasteries. The people all dig pits in the ground and sleep in them, with no beds or mats. The people are extremely dark; those who are white are completely rare. Their speech sounds differ from other countries. They greatly enjoy eating lice. Because they wear woolen garments, it is full of lice and nits. When they catch one, they immediately toss it into their mouths and never throw it away.

Further, to the northwest of the country of Kasmira, after crossing the mountains for seven days' journey, one reaches the small country of Vajrayana. This place is under the control of the country of Han. Clothing, customs, food and drink, and speech are similar to those of the great country of Vajrayana. They wear cotton garments and boots, cut their beards and hair, and wrap a strip of cloth around their heads. Women wear their hair long. The poor are many and the rich are few. Mountains and rivers are narrow and small, and fields for planting are not plentiful. Their mountains are barren and stony, originally without trees or various grasses. As for the great country of Vajrayana, it was originally the place where the king of the small country of Vajrayana resided. Because the Tubo came and pressured them, he fled and went to sit in the small country of Vajrayana. The chiefs and common people have not come to the great country of Vajrayana.

又從迦葉彌羅國西北隔山一月程至建馱羅。此王及兵馬。總是突厥。土人是胡。兼有婆羅門。此國舊是罽賓王王化。為此突厥王阿耶領一部落兵馬。投彼罽賓王。於後突厥兵盛。便殺彼罽賓王。自為國主。因茲國境突厥霸王此國已北。並住中。其山並燋無草及樹。衣著人風言音節氣並別。衣是皮𣬼㲲衫靴袴之類土地宜大麥小麥。全無黍粟及稻。人多食麨及餅。唯除迦葉彌羅大㔜小㔜揚同等國。即此建馱羅國。乃至五天崑崙等國。總無蒲□□□甘蔗。此突厥王象有五頭。羊馬無數。駝騾驢等甚□多。地與胡□□□□□迴不過。向南為道路險惡。多足劫賊。從茲已北。西業者多市店之間。極多屠殺。此王雖是突厥。甚敬信三寶。王王妃王子首領等。各各造寺。供養三寶。此王每年兩迴設無遮大齋。但是緣身所受用之物。妻及象馬等。並皆捨施。唯妻及象。令僧斷價。王還自贖。自餘駝馬金銀衣物家具。聽僧貨賣。自分利養此王不同餘已北突厥也。兒女亦然。各各造寺。設齋捨施。此城俯臨辛頭大河北岸而置。此城西三日程有一大寺。即是天親菩薩無着菩薩所住之寺。此寺名葛諾歌。有一大塔。每常放光。此寺及塔。舊時葛諾歌王造。從王立寺名也。又此城東南□里。即是佛過去為尸毘王救鴿處。見有寺有僧。又佛過去捨頭捨眼餧五夜叉等處。並在此國中。在此城東南山裏。各有寺有僧。見今供養。此國大小乘俱行。

From there, traveling northwest from Kashmir, over the mountains for a month's journey, you reach Gandhara. The king and his soldiers are all Turks. The local people are Hu, and there are also Brahmins. This country was originally under the rule of the King of Kashmir. Because the Turkish king A-ye led a tribal army and submitted to the King of Kashmir. Later, the Turkish forces grew strong, and they killed the King of Kashmir and made themselves rulers of the country. Thus, the Turkish king ruled this territory. North of this country, they all live in... Their mountains are all scorched, with no grass or trees. Their clothing, customs, language, and seasons are all different. Their clothes are of leather, felt, and wool—robes, boots, and trousers of that sort. The land is suitable for barley and wheat. There is no millet, no rice at all. People mostly eat... and cakes. Only Kashmir, Takka, and Yang-tong and other countries are exceptions. As for this Gandhara country, and even the five regions of India, Kunlun, and other countries—none have reeds... sugar cane. This Turkish king has five elephants, countless sheep and horses, and very many camels, mules, and donkeys. The land and the Hu... no more than... To the south, the roads are dangerous and treacherous. There are many bandits. North of here, many engage in trade; among the shops and markets, there is much slaughtering. Although this king is a Turk, he deeply reveres and has faith in the Three Jewels. The king, his queens, princes, and chiefs each build monasteries and make offerings to the Three Jewels. This king twice each year holds a great assembly of unrestricted giving. Whatever possessions he uses for himself—his wife, elephants, horses, and so on—he gives away entirely. Only his wife and elephants: he has the monks set a price, and the king buys them back himself. As for the rest—camels, horses, gold, silver, clothing, household goods—he lets the monks sell them and divide the proceeds for their own support. This king is unlike the other Turks to the north. His sons and daughters are the same—each builds monasteries, holds assemblies, and gives generously. This city is situated overlooking the north bank of the great Sindhu River. Three days' journey west of this city is a great monastery—the very monastery where the Bodhisattva Vasubandhu and the Bodhisattva Asanga lived. This monastery is called Kanika. There is a great stupa there that constantly emits light. This monastery and stupa were built by King Kanika in ancient times. The monastery takes its name from the king. Also, southeast of this city, ... li, is the place where the Buddha in a past life, as King Shibi, rescued a dove. There is a monastery and monks there now. Also, the places where the Buddha in past lives gave away his head, gave away his eyes, and fed the five yakshas—all are in this country. In the mountains southeast of this city, each has monasteries and monks, and they are still receiving offerings today. In this country, both the Mahayana and Hinayana are practiced.

又從此建馱羅國。正北入山三日程。至烏長國。彼自云欝地引那。此王大敬三寶。百姓村莊。多分施入寺家供養。少分自留以供養衣食。設齋供養。每日是常。足寺足僧。僧稍多於俗人也。專行大乘法也。衣著飲食人風。與建馱羅國相似。言音不同。土地足駝騾羊馬㲲布之類。節氣甚冷又從烏長國。東北入山十五日程。至拘衛國。彼自呼云奢摩褐羅闍國。此王亦敬信三寶。有寺有僧。衣著言音。與烏長國相似。著㲲衫袴等。亦有羊馬等也又從此建馱羅國。西行入山七日。至覽波國。此國無王。有大首領。亦屬建馱羅國所管。衣著言音。與建馱羅國相似。亦有寺有僧。敬信三寶。行大乘法又從此覽波國而行入山。經於八日程。至罽賓國。此國亦是建馱羅王所管。此王夏在罽賓。逐涼而坐。冬往建馱羅。趁暖而住。彼即無雪。暖而不寒。其罽賓國冬天積雪。為此冷也。此國土人是胡。王及兵馬突厥。衣著言音食飲。與吐火羅國。大同少異。無問男之與女。並皆著㲲布衫袴及靴。男女衣服無有差別。男人並剪鬚髮。女人髮在。土地出駝騾羊馬驢牛㲲布蒲桃大小二麥欝金香等。國人大敬信三寶。足寺足僧。百姓家各絲造寺。供養三寶。大城中有一寺。名沙糸寺。寺中貝佛螺髻骨舍利見在王官百姓每日供養。此國行小乘。亦住山裏山頭無有草木。恰似火燒山也又從此罽賓國西行至七日謝䫻國。彼自呼云社護羅薩他那。土人是胡。王及兵馬。即是突厥。其王即是罽賓王姪兒。自把部落兵馬住此於國。不屬餘國。亦不屬阿叔。此王及首領。雖是突厥。極敬三寶。足寺足僧。行大乘法。有一大突厥首領。名娑鐸幹。每年一迴。設金銀無數。多於彼王。衣著人風。土地所出。與罽賓王相似。言音各別又從謝䫻國。北行七日。至犯引國。此王是胡。不屬餘國。兵馬強多。諸國不敢來侵。衣著㲲布衫皮毬氈衫等類。土地出羊馬㲲布之屬。甚足蒲桃。土地有雪。極寒住多依山。王及首領百姓等。大敬三寶。足寺足僧。行大小乘法。此國及謝䫻等。亦並剪於鬚髮。人風大分與罽賓相似。別異處多。當土言音。不同餘國又從此犯引國。北行二十日。至吐火羅國。王住城名為縛底那。見今大𥦽兵馬。在彼鎮押。其王被其王被逼。走向東一月程。在蒲持山。住見屬大𥦽所管。言音與諸國別。共罽賓國少有相似。多分不同。衣著皮毬㲲布等。上至國王。下及黎庶。皆以皮毬。為上服。土地足駝騾羊馬㲲布蒲桃。食唯愛餅。土地寒冷。冬天霜雪也。國王首領及百姓等。甚敬三寶。足寺足僧。行小乘法。食內及葱蕜等。不事外道。男人並剪鬚髮。女人在髮土地足山又從吐火羅國。西行一月。至波斯國。此王先管大𥦽。大𥦽是波斯王放駝戶。於後叛。便殺彼王。自立為主。然今此國。却被大𥦽所吞。衣舊著寬㲲布衫剪鬚髮。食唯餅肉。縱然有米。亦磨作餅喫也。土地出駝騾羊馬。出高大驢㲲布寶物。言音各別。不同餘國。土地人性。受與易。常於西海汎舶。入南海。向師子國。取諸寶物。所以彼國云出寶物。亦向崑崙國取金。亦汎舶漢地。直至廣州。取綾絹絲綿之類。土地出好細疊。國人愛殺生。事天不識佛法又從波斯國。北行十日入山至大𥦽國。彼王住不本國。見向小拂臨國住也。為打得彼國。彼國復居山島。處所極窂。為此就彼。土地出駝騾羊馬疊布毛[毯-炎+(夗/木)]。亦有寶物。衣著細疊寬衫。衫上又披一疊布。以為上服。王及百姓衣服。一種無別。女人亦著寬衫。男人剪髮在鬚。女人在髮。喫食無問貴賤。與同一盆而食。手把亦匙箸。取見極惡。云自手殺而食。得福無量。國人愛殺事天。不識佛法。國法無有跪拜法也又小拂臨國。傍海西北。即是大拂臨國。此王兵馬強多。不屬餘國。大𥦽數迴討擊不得。突厥侵亦不得。土地足寶物。甚足駝騾羊馬疊布等物。衣著與波斯大𥦽相似。言音各別不同。

Leaving Jian Tuo Luo, one travels three days north into the mountains to reach the country of Udyāna. Its people call it Uḍḍiyāna. This king greatly reveres the Three Jewels. Most of the villages and towns among the common people donate most of their resources to the monasteries for offerings, keeping only a small portion for their own clothing and food. They regularly provide vegetarian feasts and offerings every day without fail. The monasteries are full and the monks are numerous—the monks slightly outnumber the laypeople. They exclusively practice the Mahāyāna. Their clothing, food, and customs are similar to those of Jian Tuo Luo, though their language differs. The land abounds with camels, mules, sheep, horses, and cotton cloth. The climate is very cold.

From Udyāna, traveling northeast into the mountains for fifteen days, one reaches the country of Kuwei. Its people call it the country of Shamaheluojia. This king also reveres and has faith in the Three Jewels. There are monasteries and monks. Their clothing and language are similar to those of Udyāna—they wear cotton shirts and trousers, and so on. They also have sheep, horses, and the like.

From Jian Tuo Luo, traveling west into the mountains for seven days, one reaches the country of Lanbo. This country has no king. It has a great chief and is also under the administration of the King of Jian Tuo Luo. Their clothing and language are similar to those of Jian Tuo Luo. There are also monasteries and monks. They revere and have faith in the Three Jewels and practice the Mahāyāna.

From Lanbo, traveling on into the mountains for eight days, one reaches the country of Kashmir. This country is also under the administration of the King of Jian Tuo Luo. This king spends the summer in Kashmir, sitting in the cool, and goes to Jian Tuo Luo in winter, staying in the warmth. There there is no snow; it is warm without cold. Kashmir itself has accumulated snow in winter, and for this reason it is cold. The native people of this country are Hu (Central Asian), while the king and his soldiers are Turks. Their clothing, language, food, and drink are largely similar to those of the country of Tokharistan, with slight differences. Regardless of whether male or female, all wear cotton cloth shirts and trousers and boots. There is no difference between men's and women's clothing. The men all cut their beards and hair; the women keep their hair long. The land produces camels, mules, sheep, horses, donkeys, cattle, cotton cloth, grapes, both large and small wheat, and saffron, among other things. The people of the country greatly revere and have faith in the Three Jewels. The monasteries are full and the monks are numerous. Each household of the common people builds its own monastery, making offerings to the Three Jewels. In the great city there is a monastery named Shasi Monastery. In this monastery, the Buddha's conch-shell topknot and bone relics are present and are offered to daily by the king, officials, and common people. This country practices the Hīnayāna. It also sits among the mountains; the mountain peaks have no grass or trees, just like a mountain burned by fire.

From Kashmir, traveling west for seven days, one reaches the country of Xieyu. Its people call it Shehuluosatana. The native people are Hu, while the king and his soldiers are Turks. The king is a nephew of the King of Kashmir. He himself holds the tribal soldiers and horses and resides in this country. It is not subject to any other country, nor is it subject to his uncle. Although this king and his chiefs are Turks, they deeply revere the Three Jewels. The monasteries are full and the monks are numerous. They practice the Mahāyāna. There is a great Turkish chief named Saduoqian who every year provides countless gold and silver, more than that king. Their clothing, customs, and the land's products are similar to those of the King of Kashmir, though their languages differ.

From Xieyu, traveling north for seven days, one reaches the country of Fanyin. This king is Hu and not subject to any other country. His soldiers and horses are strong and numerous; no country dares invade. They wear cotton shirts, leather garments, felt shirts, and the like. The land produces sheep, horses, cotton cloth, and similar things, and has abundant grapes. The land has snow and is extremely cold; most people live in the mountains. The king, chiefs, and common people all greatly revere the Three Jewels. The monasteries are full and the monks are numerous. They practice both the Mahāyāna and Hīnayāna. This country and Xieyu also cut their beards and hair. Their customs are largely similar to Kashmir's, though there are many differences. The local language differs from other countries.

From Fanyin, traveling north for twenty days, one reaches the country of Tokharistan. The king resides in a city named Fudina. Presently there are great Daqin soldiers stationed there in control. The king has been forced to flee eastward a month's journey and now resides at Mount Puchi. He is now under the administration of Daqin. Their language differs from other countries; it has slight similarities to Kashmir but is mostly different. They wear leather garments and cotton cloth. From the king above to the common people below, all wear leather garments as their upper clothing. The land abounds with camels, mules, sheep, horses, cotton cloth, and grapes. In food they only love cakes. The land is cold; in winter there is frost and snow. The king, chiefs, and common people all greatly revere the Three Jewels. The monasteries are full and the monks are numerous. They practice the Hīnayāna. They eat meat and onions, leeks, and the like, and do not serve other religions. The men all cut their beards and hair; the women keep their hair. The land is full of mountains.

From Tokharistan, traveling west for one month, one reaches the country of Persia. This king originally controlled Daqin. Daqin was a camel-herding household set up by the King of Persia. Later they rebelled and killed that king, setting themselves up as rulers. But now this country has been swallowed by Daqin. They still wear loose cotton cloth shirts and cut their beards and hair. In food they eat only cakes and meat; even if there is rice, it is ground into cakes to eat. The land produces camels, mules, sheep, horses, tall large donkeys, cotton cloth, and treasures. Their language differs from other countries. The people's character is amenable and they engage in trade. They constantly sail the Western Sea, enter the Southern Sea, and go to the country of Sri Lanka to obtain various treasures. That is why that country is said to produce treasures. They also go to the country of Kunlun to obtain gold. They also sail to Han lands, going as far as Guangzhou, to obtain fine silks, gauze, floss, and the like. The land produces fine thin silk fabric. The people love killing living beings and serve heaven, not knowing the Dharma.

From Persia, traveling north for ten days into the mountains, one reaches the country of Daqin. Their king does not reside in his own country; he is presently residing in the country of Lesser Florence. He defeated that country, and since that country is situated on a mountain island, extremely secluded and secure, he took up residence there. The land produces camels, mules, sheep, horses, fine cotton cloth, and fur. It also has treasures. They wear fine thin cotton and loose shirts; over the shirt they drape another piece of cotton cloth as their upper garment. The king and common people wear the same kind of clothing, without distinction. The women also wear loose shirts. The men cut their hair and keep their beards; the women keep their hair. In eating and drinking, regardless of noble or humble, they eat together from the same basin. They also use spoons and chopsticks with their hands. They consider what they do utterly wicked, saying that if one kills with one's own hands and eats, one gains immeasurable merit. The people love killing and serve heaven, not knowing the Dharma. In the country's law there is no practice of kneeling or bowing.

Adjoining Lesser Florence, by the sea to the northwest, is Greater Florence. This king has strong and numerous soldiers and horses and is not subject to any other country. Daqin has sent expeditions to attack it several times without success. The Turks have invaded it also without success. The land abounds with treasures, and with plenty of camels, mules, sheep, horses, cotton cloth, and such things. Their clothing is similar to that of Persia and Daqin, though their languages differ from one another.

又從此胡國已北。北至北海。西至西海。東至漢國。已北總是突厥所住境界。此等突厥不識佛法。無寺無僧。衣著皮毬氈衫。以虫為食。亦無城郭住處。氈帳為屋。行住隨身。隨逐水草。男人並剪鬚髮。女人在頭。言音與諸國不同。國人愛殺。不識善惡。土地足駝騾羊馬之屬又從吐火羅國。東行七日。至胡蜜王住城。當來於吐火羅國。逢漢使入蕃。略題四韻取辭。五言君恨西蕃遠。余嗟東路長。道荒宏雪嶺。險澗賊途倡。鳥飛驚峭嶷。人去偏樑。雖平生不捫淚。今日灑千行。冬日在吐火羅逢雪述懷。五言冷雪牽氷合。寒風擘地烈。巨海凍墁壇。江河凌崖囓。龍門絕瀑布。井口盤蛇結。伴火上𮌑歌。焉能度播蜜此胡蜜王。兵馬少弱。不能自護。見屬大𥦽所管。每年輸稅絹三千疋。住居山谷。處所狹小。百姓貧多。衣著皮裘氈衫。王著綾絹疊布。食唯餅𩚙土地極寒。甚於餘國。言音與諸國不同。所出羊牛。極小不大。亦有馬騾。有僧有寺。行小乘法。王及首領百姓等。總事佛。不歸外道。所以此國無外道。男並剪除鬚髮。女人在頭。住居山裏。其山無有樹水及於百草。

From this region of the Hu people northward, reaching the Northern Sea in the north, the Western Sea in the west, and the land of the Han in the east — all of the north is the territory of the Turks. These Turks do not know the Buddha-Dharma. They have no temples and no monks. They wear leather and felt garments. They eat insects. They have no walled cities or settlements. They live in felt tents that they carry with them wherever they go, following water and grass. The men all cut their beards and hair; the women wear their hair up. Their speech differs from that of other lands. The people delight in killing and do not know good from evil. The land abounds in camels, mules, sheep, and horses.

From the land of Tokharistan, traveling east for seven days, one reaches the city where the king of Humi resides. Previously, while in Tokharistan, I met a Han envoy entering the foreign lands, and I composed a brief verse of four lines to express my feelings. Five-character verse:

You lament that the Western lands are far; I sigh that the eastern road is long. The path is wild across the vast snow mountains, Through perilous gorges where bandits lurk. Birds fly startled by the jagged peaks; Travelers depart along the narrow bridge. Though in all my life I have not wiped away tears, Today they fall in a thousand streams.

On a winter day in Tokharistan, encountering snow, I expressed my feelings. Five-character verse:

Cold snow pulls the ice together; The frigid wind splits the earth violently. The great sea freezes into a vast expanse; Rivers and streams gnaw at the cliffs. The Dragon Gate's waterfall is cut off; At the well's mouth, snakes coil in knots. Beside the fire, singing with bent back — How could one cross the Pamirs?

This king of Humi has few and weak soldiers and cannot protect himself. He is under the control of the Great Yuezhi. Each year he pays three thousand bolts of silk in tribute. He lives in a mountain valley, and the place is narrow and small. The common people are many but poor. They wear leather robes and felt garments. The king wears fine silk and layered cloth. Their food is only flatbread. The land is extremely cold, more so than other countries. Their speech differs from that of other lands. The sheep and cattle they produce are extremely small. They also have horses and mules. They have monks and temples. They practice the Lesser Vehicle. The king, the chiefs, and the common people all serve the Buddha and do not follow other teachings. That is why this country has no non-Buddhists. The men all cut their beards and hair; the women wear their hair up. They live within the mountains. Those mountains have no trees, no water, and no vegetation.

又胡蜜國北山裏。有九箇識匿國。九箇王各領兵馬而住。有一箇王。屬胡蜜王。自外各並自住。不屬餘國。近有兩窟王。來投於漢國使命安西。往來絕。唯王首領。衣著疊布皮裘。自餘百姓。唯是皮裘氈衫。土地極寒。為居雪山。不同餘國。亦有羊馬牛驢。言音各別。不同諸國。彼王常遣三二百人於大播蜜川。劫彼與胡及於使命。縱劫得絹。積在庫中。聽從壞爛。亦不解作衣著也。此識匿等國無有佛法也又從胡蜜國東行十五日。過播蜜川。即至葱嶺鎮。此即屬漢。兵馬見今鎮押。此即舊日王裴星國境。為王背叛。走投土蕃。然今國界無有百姓。外國人呼云渴飯檀國。漢名葱嶺又從葱嶺步入一月。至疎勒。外國自呼名伽師祇離國。此亦漢軍馬守促。有寺有僧。行小乘法。喫肉及葱韮等。土人著疊布衣也又從疎勒東行一月。至龜茲國。即是安西大都護府。漢國兵馬大都集處。此龜茲國。足寺足僧。行小乘法。食肉及葱韮等也。漢僧行大乘法又安西南去于闐國二千里。亦足漢軍馬領押。足寺足僧。行大乘法。不食肉也。從此已東。並是大唐境界。諸人共知。不言可悉開元十五年十一月上旬。至安西。于時節度大使趙君。

North of the mountains in the country of Hami, there are nine Shini countries. Each of the nine kings has his own soldiers and horses and lives independently. One of these kings is subject to the king of Hami. The rest all live independently and are not subject to any other country. Recently, two Cave Kings came to submit to the Han court and were sent as envoys to Anxi, but the route has been cut off. Only the king and his chiefs wear layered cloth and fur robes. The common people all wear only fur robes and felt shirts. The land is extremely cold because it lies in the Snow Mountains, unlike other countries. They also have sheep, horses, cattle, and donkeys. Their speech differs from that of other countries. That king often sends two or three hundred men to the Great Bomi River to rob those going to and from Hami and the envoys. Even when they seize silk, they pile it up in storehouses and let it rot, not knowing how to make clothing from it. The countries of Shini and the others have no Buddha-Dharma.

Going east from Hami for fifteen days, crossing the Bomi River, one reaches the Congling Garrison. This belongs to Han, and soldiers and horses still guard it today. This was formerly the territory of the country of King Peixing. Because the king rebelled and fled to Tubo, the borders now have no common people. Foreigners call it the country of Kewan Tan; in Chinese it is Congling.

Going on foot from Congling for one month, one reaches Shule. Foreigners themselves call it the country of Jiashiqili. This too is guarded by Han soldiers and horses. There are monasteries and monks. They practice the Small Vehicle and eat meat, onions, garlic, and the like. The local people wear layered cloth clothing.

Going east from Shule for one month, one reaches the country of Kucha, which is the seat of the Grand Protectorate of Anxi and the main gathering place of Han soldiers and horses. In this country of Kucha there are plenty of monasteries and monks. They practice the Small Vehicle and eat meat, onions, garlic, and the like. The Han monks practice the Great Vehicle.

Going southwest from Anxi for two thousand li, one reaches the country of Khotan. It is also fully guarded by Han soldiers and horses. There are plenty of monasteries and monks. They practice the Great Vehicle and do not eat meat. From here eastward, all is the territory of Great Tang. Everyone knows this, so it need not be fully explained.

In the first ten days of the eleventh month of the fifteenth year of the Kaiyuan era, I arrived at Anxi. At that time the Military Commissioner was Lord Zhao.

About 遊方記抄

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At that time, on the road in South India, he spoke these words:

On a winter day in Tokharistan, encountering snow, I expressed my feelings. Five-character verse:

In the first ten days of the eleventh month of the fifteenth year of the Kaiyuan era, I arrived at Anxi. At that time the Military Commissioner was Lord Zhao.

Record of Pilgrimage Journeys (遊方記抄)

About 遊方記抄

Record of Pilgrimage Journeys (遊方記抄)

About 遊方記抄