繼業西域行程(宋范成大撰吳船錄卷上峨眉山牛心寺記)
秋七月戊戌朔。離黑水。復過白水寺前。渡雙溪橋。入牛心寺。雨後斷路。白雲峽水方漲。碧流白石。照人肺肝。如層氷積雪。籃輿下行峽淺處以入寺。飛濤濺沫襟裾皆濡。境過清毛髮盡竦。寺對青蓮峯。有白雲青蓮二閣。最佳。牛心本孫思邈隱居。相傳時出諸山寺中。人數見之。小說亦載招僧誦經施與金錢。正此山故事。有孫仙煉丹竈。在峯頂。及淘朱泉在白雲峽最深處。去寺數里。水深不可涉。獨訪丹竈。竈傍多奇石。祠堂後一石尤佳。可以箕踞宴坐。名玩丹石。寺有唐畫羅漢一板。筆跡超妙。眉目津津。欲與人語。成都古畫浮圖像最多。皆出此下。蜀畫胡僧惟盧楞迦之筆為第一。今見此板。乃知楞迦源流。所自餘十五板亡之矣。
In autumn, on the first day of the seventh lunar month, I left Blackwater and passed by the Whitewater Temple. Crossing Twin Stream Bridge, I entered Niuxin Temple. After the rain, the path had been cut off. The waters of White Cloud Gorge were just then rising. The blue current and white stones were so clear they seemed to lay bare one's very lungs and liver, like layered ice or piled snow. I descended by sedan chair through the shallows of the gorge to reach the temple. Flying torrents and splashing foam soaked my robes and sleeves. The scene was so pure and cold that every hair on my body stood on end. The temple faces Blue Lotus Peak, and there are two pavilions—White Cloud and Blue Lotus—which are the finest. Niuxin Temple was originally the hermitage of Sun Simiao. Legend has it that he would often appear in the various temples of these mountains, and many people saw him. Fictional tales also record him inviting monks to chant scriptures and giving them gold coins—this is the very story from these mountains. There is an alchemy furnace left by Immortal Sun on the peak's summit, as well as the Washing Cinnabar Spring in the deepest part of White Cloud Gorge. It is several li from the temple, and the water is too deep to cross. I went alone to visit the alchemy furnace. Beside it were many extraordinary rocks, and behind the shrine one rock was especially fine—suitable for sitting cross-legged in meditation. It is called the Playing-with-Cinnabar Rock. The temple houses a single board painting of an arhat from the Tang dynasty, with brushwork supremely exquisite. The eyes and eyebrows were so vivid they seemed ready to speak with people. In Chengdu, there are many ancient painted Buddhist figures, but none surpass this one. Among Sichuan paintings of foreign monks, only the brush of Lu Lengjia is considered the best. Now, seeing this board, I realized the source of Lu Lengjia's artistic lineage. The other fifteen boards from this set have been lost.
此寺即繼業三藏所作。業姓王氏。耀州人。隷東京天壽院。乾德二年。詔沙門三百人。入天竺求舍利及貝多葉書。業預遣中。至開寶九年始歸。寺所藏涅槃經一函四十二卷。業於每卷後。分記西域行程。雖不甚詳。然地里大略可考。世所罕見。錄於此以備國史之闕。
業自階州出塞西行。由靈武西涼甘肅瓜沙等州。入伊吳高昌焉耆于闐疎勒大石諸國。度雪嶺至布路州國。又度大葱嶺雪山。至伽濕彌羅國。西登大山有薩埵太子投崖飼虎處。遂至健陀羅國。謂之中印土。
又西至。庶流波國及太爛陀羅國。國有二寺。又西過四大國。至大曲女城。南臨陷牟河。北背恒河塔廟甚多。而無僧尼。又西二程有寶階故基。又西至波羅奈國。兩城相去五里。南臨恒河。又西北十許里至鹿野苑。塔廟佛蹟最夥。業自云。別有傳記。今不傳矣。
南行十里渡恒河。河南有大浮圖。自鹿野苑西至摩迦提國。館於漢寺。寺多租入。八村隷焉。僧徒往來如歸。南與杖林山相直。巍峯巋然。山北有優婆掬多石室及塔廟故基。南百里有孤山。名鷄足三峯。云是迦葉入定處。又西北百里。有菩提寶座城。四門相望。金剛座在其中東向。又東至尼連禪河。東岸有石柱。記佛舊事。自菩提座東南五里至佛苦行處。又西三里至三迦葉村及牧牛女池。金剛座之北門外。有師子國伽藍。又北五里至伽耶城。又北十里至伽耶山。云是佛說寶雲經處。又自金剛座東北十五里至正覺山。又東北三十里至骨磨城。業館於鰕羅寺。謂之南印土。諸國僧多居之。又東北四十里至王舍城。東南五里有降醉象塔。又東北登大山。細路盤紆。有舍利子塔。又臨澗有下馬迎風塔。度絕壑。登山頂。有大塔廟。云是七佛說法處。山北平地又有舍利本生塔。其北山半曰鷲峯。云是佛說法華經處。山下即王舍城。城北山址有溫泉二十餘井。又北有大寺及迦蘭陀竹園故跡。又東有阿難半身舍利塔。溫湯之西有平地。直南登山腹有畢波羅窟。業止其中。誦經百日而去。窟西復有阿難證果塔。此去新王舍城八里。日往乞食。會新王舍城中有蘭若。隸漢寺。又有樹提迦故宅城。其西有輪王塔。
又北十五里有那爛陀寺。寺之南北各有數十寺。門皆西向。其北有四佛座。又東北十五里至烏嶺頭寺。東南五里有聖觀自在像。又東北十里至伽濕彌羅漢寺。寺南距漢寺八里許。自漢寺東行十二里。至郤提希山。又東七十里有鴿寺。西北五十里有支那西寺。古漢寺也。西北百里至花氏城。育王故都也。
自此渡河。北至毘耶離城。有維摩方丈故跡又至拘尸那城及多羅聚落。踰大山數重至泥波羅國。又至摩偷果。過雪嶺。至三耶寺。
由故道自此入階州。太祖已晏駕。太宗即位。業詣闕進所得梵夾舍利等。詔擇名山修習。登峨眉。北望牛心。眾峯環翊。遂作菴居。已而為寺。業年八十四而終。
出牛心復過中峯之前入新峨眉。觀自觀前山。開新路極峻。斗下冐雨。以遊龍門。竭蹙數里。歘至一處。澗溪自兩山石門中湧出。是為龍門峽也。以一葉舟。棹入石門。兩岸千丈。巖壁色如碧玉。刻削光潤。入峽十餘丈。有兩瀑布。各出一巖頂。相對飛下。嵌根有盤石承之。激為飛雨。濺洙滿峽。舟過其前。衣皆沾灑透濕。又數丈半巖有圓龕。去水可二丈。以木梯升之。即龍洞也。峽中紺碧無底。石寒水清。非復人世。舟行數十步。石壁益峻水益湍。丞回棹。舟人云。前去更奇。以雨大作加飛瀑沾濡。暑肌起粟。骨驚神𢥠。凜乎夫不可以久留也。昔嘗聞。峨眉雙溪。不減盧山三峽。前日過之。真奇絕。及至龍門。則雙溪又在下風。蓋天下峽泉之勝。當以龍門為第一。要之。遊者自知。未之遊者。必以余言為過。然其道險絕。亂石當道。將至峽。必捨輿躡草履。經營蹞步。於槎牙兀臬中。方至峽口。蓋大峨峯頂。天下絕觀。蜀人固自罕遊。而龍門又勝絕於山間。遊峨眉。者亦罕能到。非好奇喜事忘勞苦而不憚疾病者不能至焉。復尋大路出山。初夜始至縣中。